A snake, or Waugal, on a little, yellow, aluminium triangle directed me to stunning views at the water’s edge. Fog was lifting. I was struggling already with the weight of my pack, glad to let it drop to the ground and join several people taking photographs of pied cormorants and darters perched on a small jetty. The shimmering bay is as still as glass. Had I read that this bay in Albany, Western Australia, is bigger than Sydney Harbour?
