Overlooking the Port Arthur penal settlement from a powerful modern boat on a glorious fine day, none of its horror is obvious. We’re walking away from that history. Some of us are fresh from the airport and a busy workload. There’s a stain that convict stories leave, another stain that our worklife imprints. The boat surges and wind whips those thoughts from our minds. Hold on tightly. Face into the wind, away from brick buildings. Notice the marshmallow clouds, the clarity of the water, the blue of the sky, the company of strangers. There’s always a fear in the first hour of a multi-day walk. Despite research and planning, the unknowns peak out from their hiding places. Unknowns about the Three Capes Walk itself: what’s moderate physical fitness, how steep is that short climb, will we hear snoring, are we strong enough? Nearly two hundred years ago, men walked in leg irons as they built roads. We’ll walk in sturdy boots as we wander the well-marked track at our leisure.